If you’ve heard of Bologna, chances are you’ve heard of its most famous nickname “La Grassa” – the Fat One. It’s a weird moniker, but one that’s well deserved. As the capital of the Emilia Romagna region, in Italy’s north, Bologna is widely known for the gastronomic delicacies that have made the Italian cuisine famous in all parts of the world.
In fact, Emilia Romagna produces some of Italy’s best known ingredients, from balsamic vinegar to Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Parma ham to Lambrusco red wine. Bologna itself is the birthplace of famous Mortadella. All in all, Emilia Romagna is an epicenter of Italian flavors! That being said, Bologna is not the birthplace of spaghetti Bolognese. Although it DID exist. And was made with tuna, believe it or not.
While the bolognese meat sauce we associate with ragu’ is typical of Bologna and the Emilia-Romagna region, dried spaghetti is definitely not. Emilia Romagna is the heartland of fresh egg pasta, and no cook from this region worth their salt would dream of pairing their famed bolognese meat sauce to the dried pasta that is more typical of other Italian regions, an act tantamount to heresy.
Just about every Italian region has its own type of ‘spaghetti Bolognese’ known generically as pasta al ragù, meaning simply pasta with sauce – the type of pasta and the type of sauce are combined according to regional traditions. What the rest of the world means by spaghetti bolognese in Italy would be tagliatelle al ragù.
Tagliatelle al ragu’ from our pasta tasting stop on La Grassa Tour
Bologna’s tagliatelle al ragù is said to have originated in the 16th century in the wealthy courts of noble families. Tagliatelle is a wide and flat noodle made from egg as it’s more porous and therefore perfect for soaking up the sauce. The chosen ragù made from minced lean beef, with a small addition of fattier minced pork, tomato sauce (passata di pomodoro) and a soffritto of celery, carrot and onion or shallot – garlic is never used. The ragù needs to bubble away slowly for at least two hours. The official recipe calls for this gravy to be cooked with white wine (not red!) and finished with milk to emulsify all the richness.
In the days of Bologna’s nobles, the ragù was entrusted to the villa guard as they had to stay put for long periods of time surveilling, and could watch over the ragù, stirring it from time to time, ensuring that it wouldn’t burn.
Tagliatelle al ragù is a definite must order when you’re in Bologna, as is its fellow pasta companion, tortellini al brodo - small, ring-shaped pasta filled with pork loin, prosciutto ham, mortadella sausage, Parmesan cheese, and nutmeg, and served in a savory beef broth and topped with a heaping spoonful of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
Bologna isn’t lacking when it comes to restaurants, so if you’re looking for a little guidance, these are Curious Appetite’s picks in Bologna if you’re looking for the best traditional dishes the city has to offer.
For more traditional foods in the city and the curious history behind them, check out our La Grassa Bologna Food Tour led by local official cultural guides.
And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter to stay up to date with the latest from Italy plus plenty more insider tips and free travel guides: http://eepurl.com/cEl6cf
Grassilli
Via dal Luzzo, 3/d
In the name of butter and parmesan, Grassili does solid Bolognese dishes with some French touches. In the traditional section of the menu, you’ll find tagliatelle with ragù, tortellini in broth and a variety of Bolognese cutlet (veal breaded and fried, topped with cooked ham and a Parmesan cream).
Tortelloni filled with ricotta in a butter sage sauce
Salsamenteria
Via Altabella, 19/B
Salsamenteria started life as a temple to all things pork. Today it has broadened its horizons by offering an all-round selection of typical Emilian products. There’s also a small bistro in the back where you can dine-in. The homemade stuffed and non-stuffed pastas are a must.
All'Osteria Bottega
Via Santa Caterina, 51
This Michelin guide recommended spot focuses on the region’s most traditional, best-known and authentic recipes. It features a superb selection of affetati misti and delicious pastas, followed by roast rabbit and other hearty main courses.
Darcy
Str. Maggiore, 10/a
Darcy defines itself as a contemporary osteria with the checked tablecloths and copper pots replaced by dark walls and acid yellow tables. With just 40 covers, it has made a name for itself by reinventing great Italian and international classics. That said, its lasagna is considered one of the city’s best!
Cotoletta- a rich cutlet in Bologna worth knowing
Trattoria Gianni
Via Clavature, 18
This street was once famous for its key and lock makers - the very patrons who frequented Trattoria Gianni when it opened in the 1950s. In the decades that followed, its neighbours and patrons may have changed, but this restaurant has not. The interiors, all vaults and low arches with very thick walls, are unadorned and unfussy. The menu is strictly Bolognese with very few deviations, such as thinly sliced lard served with toast, mortadella mousse and grilled mortadella with balsamic vinegar.
Gramigna- a corkscrew pasta of Bologna worth a taste
Trattoria Bertozzi
Via Andrea Costa, 84/2/D
Bertozzi is one of Bologna’s true neighborhood spots serving up a warm and convivial atmosphere alongside quality-driven traditional cuisine with a valid champagne fridge to pair with the myriad pastas. The saffron corkscrew gramigna and braised meatballs are a must. A bit off the beaten path but worth getting outside the crowded historical center for.
Trattoria Da Me
Via S. Felice, 50a
Another Michelin guide darling and featured in Alessandro Borghese’s 4 Ristoranti, Trattoria Da Me is respected for its creative reinterpretations of the region’s flavors inspired by world cuisine, vintage throwbacks and and family variations Elisa Rusconi grew up. So when you’ve had your fill of tortellini and ragu, make a beeline for this busy spot and order the cheese gelati starters, pea and sausage ravioli, baccala tacos, pork cheek braised in Sangiovese with mashed potatoes or tomato risotto with eggplant and basil pesto.
Polpette from Trattoria Via Serra
Trattoria Via Serra
Via Luigi Serra, 9b
It’s well worth heading off the traditional tourist trail to experience this simple and informal trattoria in Bolognina, the city’s historic working-class district. But only if you’ve booked. This place has a lengthy waiting list. In the kitchen, great attention is paid to seasonal specialties, supplied above all by small producers from the Slow Food network. Seasonal fresh porcini with Bologna’s plump meatballs served stand-alone and braised artichokes to break from lasagna should you need.
Vicolo Colombina
Vicolo Colombina, 5b
Joining Trattoria Da Me on the Michelin guide, this restaurant serves traditional cuisine (a.k.a no fish) with a subtle contemporary twist. Think ravioli with artichokes and whipped parmigiano-reggiano. Just be sure to save room for dessert. The soufflé, panna cotta and zuppa inglese (a type of trifle) are fan favorites.
Al Cambio
Via Stalingrado, 150
Despite its out-of-town location, this contemporary, simply decorated restaurant is extremely popular. Expect a very traditional lasagna with saucy ragu and bechamel busting at the seams, the perfect nest of tagliatelle pasta or a buttery fried Bolognese cutlet topped with slices of ham and cheese, before being cooked in a little broth.
Tortellini Bolognesi always in broth, and best not polluted with parmigiano-reggiano
Diana
Via Volturno, 5
Once considered the high temple of Bolognese cuisine, Diana opened its doors in the 1920s, and as such, likes to keep things ritzy, theatrical and preferably white-gloved. The calling cards are lasagna, tortellini and without a doubt the Gran Bollito Diana with Purée e Salsa Verde, with its selection of braised meats carved tableside by a dapper suited waiter. Diana’s freshly churned gelato alla crema is also well worth the calories being drowned in local syrupy amarene cherries.
Oltre
Via Augusto Majani, 1/b
The hipster modernist appeal at Oltre include its cocktail program, made with in-house made cordials and infused Italian liquors involving chestnut, wine grape reductions, truffle infusions, etc. Not to mention a rotating seasonal menu a la carte plus tasting menus including a vegetarian option, so you never run out of excuses for a return visit. The food here has its roots in the region with the usual mainstays like squab and meatballs yet also includes creatively prepared novel items. Think Bolognese takes on Tuna sashimi, parmesan foam pierogis, smoked ragu’ tacos and Italian-American fettucine alfredo.
Crescentine fritte- fried dough pillows
Trattoria Collegio di Spagna
Via Collegio di Spagna, 15b
At Trattoria Collegio di Spagna, the classics are so reliable, you could set your watch by them, but their appeal lies also in their affordability. The restaurant is one of the best budget-friendly eats in the city. Order the crescentine. These fried dough squares arrive at the table fragrant and piping hot. The stuffed version are also really tasty, thanks to the high quality soft “squacquerone” cheese used for their filling.
